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Where
to start? Drum
Castle on Lower Deeside, home to the family
of Irvine of Drum since the 13th century? Or
Muchalls near Stonehaven, lived in for four
centuries, and boasting one of the finer heraldic
ceilings in Scotland? Or Dunnottar,
the famous and magnificently sited stronghold
of the Keiths, a lofty headland fortress that
covers four acres, and defended from invasion
by a huge natural chasm? |
The
winding river leads right to the centre of Castle
Country, and takes you on the same highway into
the Highland heartlands as generations have
done down the centuries, though nowadays with
coffee rooms, gift shops and local pubs to ease
the journey. You’re headed first for Castle
Fraser, but this shouldn’t stop you
taking in a nearby selection of what is grandly
referred to as Scotland’s "built heritage".
Places such as the historic Town House in Kintore
with its elevated forestair and the 11th century
priory church of Monymusk. |
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Castle
Fraser is an abiding example of baronial architecture,
a sister in style to the castles of Crathes,
Midmar, Drum and Craigievar. It lies a short
distance south of Kemnay, and was the scene
a few years ago of the highly successful international
Clan Fraser Gathering.
Here
in the village of Kemnay are the origins of
the Thames Embankment, built from granite quarried
here. Kemnay masons took their skills to places
as distant as Odessa and New York. This magnificently
silver stone bears a light tinge of brown from
felspar, and contains black and white mica.
Alford,
metropolis of Donside, is also headquarters
to the Alford Valley Railway and Grampian Transport
Museum. One of the museum secrets is that here
in the Howe of Alford is home to two preserved
tramcars. Far from the routes they once worked
on, they now take pride of place among a valuable
collection of cars, wagons, bicycles and motorbikes
— and even a sledge. |
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Craigievar
Castle commands a hillside south of Alford,
built in 1626 and possibly the finest and
most complete example of Scottish 17th century
castellated architecture. The lands of Craigievar
go back seven centuries, but the building
we enjoy today came about thanks to the business
success of "Willie the Merchant"
or "Danzig Willie", the Forbes son
who made his fortune in Baltic trade.
Farther
up the Don lie Kildrummy Castle Gardens, a
shrub and alpine haven created from the quarry
that spawned Kildrummy Castle. Hereabout the
villages have long histories — Bridge
of Alford as a refreshment stop, Mossat as
a toll, Lumsden a place for changing horses,
and Glenkindie for hunting. |
The
gaunt ruin of Kildrummy
was once one of Scotland’s finest examples of
military architecture. Dominating the main north-south
route, this 13th century fortress was built on the
instructions of one king (Alexander II), attacked
by another (Edward I), and visited by Sir William
Wallace, King Robert Bruce’s queen Elizabeth,
daughter princess Marjorie, brother Nigel Bruce and
son king David II.
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